01 October 2006

Home sweet home



Hi folks… sorry for the delay in this update, Many of you have written in demanding the latest update and its good to know that my soap opera life story is still in demand.
Anyhow, for those who have been oblivious to it, I’ve just managed to sneak in a vacation to India and return. As you would be aware from my last update, my PhD has forced me to renew my visa and complicated circumstances demanded that I do it from India. So quite happily, after almost exactly a two year gap, I headed back to India, my India, and my home.
For those who have been away from home for long, you will know the anxiety and curiosity it arouses when heading back. A lot of questions thronged my head. How had India and Kerala changed since I left? Would I still be able to recognise the place? How apparent would the contrast in lifestyles and cultures be? Have I myself been changed much by the two years abroad? I had to wait till I got back to answer these.
After a “not as bad as I expected” but lengthy journey from Plymouth via Bristol and London Paddington. I caught my Air India flight from Heathrow, towards Cochin via Mumbai. It was 3:00 AM when, after the never ending journey, I finally emerged in Cochin to meet my expectant family.
Although the weather was a stark contrast to that in U.K I soon got used to the humidity, heat and pounding monsoonal rainfall. On my Journey home I strained through the dark to check out the changes even though it was still dark.


At home I was pleasantly surprised by a newly renovated kitchen, but the rest of my home (sweet home!) remained much the same.
As I chatted away the dawn and the light emerged, I suddenly became aware of the greenery and natural beauty of Kerala that surrounded me.
Realising that I only had three weeks in which to fill my senses with as much of the amazing sights and sounds at home, I rushed about with my camera, clicking away at anything and everything that seemed remotely different! This was to continue for the rest of the time at home.

I expected home food to be a lot spicier, owing to the two year lay off from spicy food in the U.K, but as I gorged down upon the long lost delicacies, my senses reoriented itself with the wonderful flavours of India. I had often dreamt of home food while I was in the U.K and I wanted to fill in as much variety as possible before heading back. Unfortunately time flew by so fast that my list couldn’t even begin to take off!
One thing that struck me, sitting at home was how slow everything (but time) went, and that included the internet! Everything had a waiting period before it got done in India! Be it an application for a visa, posting a letter, or getting a mobile connection! However, things are fast speeding up and the incredible differences between cities and villages are narrowing down.
Talking about cities and towns, Indian roads and traffic is a subject of fascination to the external world, so let me write a little more on it. I`m lucky not to have driven while I was in the U.K or else I would have found it impossible to drive in India. Indian Roads must be among the most entertaining roads in the world. Its quite impossible to fall asleep while driving on these roads as they alternate with amazing frequency between the smooth to ones that have potholes so deep that you could easily get lost for a day if you fell in one! Add to it every known animal from cows and dogs to elephants and crazy people, toss in auto-rickshaws and two wheelers that over take you from left and right and through that narrow gap you didn’t even realise existed! …and of course the trucks and over speeding buses that drive down the wrong side of the road that makes you wonder which the right side is!
Night driving is a horror, as in addition to all the above people don’t dim their lights and one is forced to do guesswork in driving as he is blinded by oncoming traffic.
Apart from all these ills, there is so much colour and life on Indian roads.
The common man makes his living along the edges of these roads, whether it be a shop or a home. Children play on and off it, cows make it their abode and vehicles are parked wherever it is convenient. The patterns arrangements and colour along these roads is a sight to behold in itself, whether it be formed by the indispensable Ambassador cars or the ever so useful rickshaws or the amazing hoardings, cinema posters and other advertisements that fill the place… exciting life surrounds it! Oh yes, not to mention the most crucial component of an Indian drivers car... the Horn! Even if he doesn’t have an engine he will have a horn and wont be miserly with its use. Without a horn you get nowhere! In spite of all this, it is a sad truth that the Indian driver still manages to fall asleep!
Traffic lights do exist, but they are a law unto themselves. Traffic police will flag you down in the middle of the highway, only to harass you for a bribe. Road and road sides are dug up all the time in the name of maintenance and open manholes and gutters are just as common. Safety is the last precaution and eluding these traps is the responsibility of the driver! All these combine to make driving in India one of the most difficult and exciting in the world. Yet I must say that the system still works. Like everything else in India, there is order amidst the chaos. Everybody understands the disorder and acts accordingly, and thus life moves on smoothly.
The natural beauty of Kerala is another aspect which struck me. Called as “gods own country” Kerala is blessed with a natural beauty to rival any place in the world. Just walking around the backyard and fields at home made me notice how much I missed all this.
The rubber trees, the coconut trees, the streams in which I had played in as a child and the pond from which I had caught my first fish. memories came flooding back.
One place that I didn’t want to miss going to before I headed back was the Thommenkuthu waterfalls. For those who know me, I’m sure I wouldn’t have missed an opportunity to tell you about this place. Let me have a go again. Situated just 12 kms from my home, Thommenkuthu is a series of 7 waterfalls along a stream that is interspersed along a length of nearly 12 – 15 kms heading down a mountain all the way from Idukki. It takes a 3 day trek through the forests to cover all the 7 waterfalls…and if one does it lodging has to be in one of the several caves along the way.
The first time I saw the place I fell in love with it and didn’t want to come away. I’ve been there on numerous occasions since and the same thing happens every single time. Apart from the breathtaking views and calm atmosphere there is something about the place that keeps me coming back. While in summers the place is ideal for a dip, the monsoons make it spectacular and dangerous with the stream in full flow . One has to be careful not just of the annoying leeches but also of the unlikely bear, or elephant and not to mention, the slippery rocks which have claimed several lives in the past. Lately the government has taken more of an interest in developing the place into an ecotourism hotspot and has implemented several safety measures including blockading the dangerous areas and implementing entry fees. My views on these are mixed and i wouldnt want to discuss that here. Oh yeah nature takes her own due on the adventurous visitors through the leeches!
Anyhow, brief as it was I am glad I got an opportunity to visit this beloved hot spot once again.
Amidst a harrowing visa application process, which took nearly two weeks of the three, and visiting relatives , time passed so fast that I almost didn’t realise the date of my return. I owe an apology to many of you back in India with whom I didn’t get in touch with while I was there. It was in my intentions to do so, but half my plans remained as mere plans owing to the short duration and multitude of things to do. Sorry.
I won’t be stretching this update much further as it has already exceeded the average length that I allow myself. I have returned here to the U.k and i`m sorely going to miss India, Kerala, my family and my home...but life has to go on and there`s miles to go before I sleep.I will be starting a new chapter of my life in the coming week, beginning my PhD here at Bristol. I ask for your well wishes as I embark on this journey. Do keep in touch; replies are assured so keep the mails coming!


2 comments:

  1. Thoma..
    guess u had a great time home !

    its true the way we feel when u land in Kerala after long..i get goose-bumps as i stare at the dark-green marvel from above Nedumbassery airport!
    its really surprising how things get done in Kerala...much like how a bee-hive works with all the hustle-bustle!

    i 've never been to Thommenkuthu.. ;(

    ReplyDelete
  2. Hey Thomas,

    Reading your bit here made me want to go running back to Kerala. I just miss the place like crazy - it sure has a charm like no other place.

    How have you been? Good to see Jo in the pics too. Is he back in Kanha? I've to write to him too. I've been crazily busy ever since I joined the corporate world.

    Well, before I end up writing a whole mail here (I'll do that separately), lemme end.

    You take care and have fun!
    -Smallix.

    ReplyDelete

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